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We drove all afternoon, crossing the Făgăraș Mountains half in the dark and arrived at 10:30 at night. Sat down to dinner at 11 pm in Eugene's dining room. Chicken soup with polenta-like balls were served - lots of parsley - and I, a vegetarian of 30 years, loved it. Such is life while traveling, such are the wonders of Romania. Afterward, we made our way to the rooms in the houses maintained by MET- Mihai Eminescu Trust. We slept in stacked single beds from which the lower one pulled out from a piece of furniture that looked like a giant dresser. Such are the wonders in Romania. It was warm from the fireplace and I dreamed vividly, perhaps due to the chicken my body was getting used to, maybe because of the magic in the air. The sun was barely coming up - it was the bells that woke me. Slightly in my sleep, they came into range and then more and more and then, so loud it was like they were there, in my room, in my bed! I jumped up, ran to the window, threw it open and was faced with a shocked shepherd and his shocked cows. The poetry of the moment was broken. It was the cows' bells, it was 6:30 in the morning, I was hung over from the chicken and tuică and so, our visit to Transylvania began.